Ei tarvi adaptereita, Tuossa ohjeet:
WJ: NV247 to NV231 swap complete: writeup well I finally got some time to put in my 231 on wednesday and it went pretty smooth. It's almost a direct bolt in swap. I'll run down a list of things you need and things you need to do in case anyone is interested in doing the swap too.
First you need a 231 transfer case that has the later style gear cut on the input shaft. 95+ I believe is the cutoff date, but you may want to double check. FYI, My case is out of a 97 TJ. Next you need an input shaft out of a 247. I ordered mine used from a jeep mechanic for $100. That was the best deal I found and I even have a hookup at a dealership. You could always use the input shaft from the 247 that you're swapping out, but I wanted to have the freedom of putting the 247 back in if things didn't work out. Plus, I figure I can always sell the 247 or take it apart and sell the input shaft to someone in my shoes.
Swapping input shafts isn't rocket science, but it definitely takes a bit of skill and knowledge. If you have a FSM and pretty good mechanical understanding I think you could pull it off. One word of advice would be to get GOOD snap ring pliers... don't skimp on the cheap ones or you'll be sorry.
So once you have the 231 with a 247 input shaft you're ready to swap it in. I'm not going to go over the details of swapping out a TC, but FYI it's a direct bolt up match minus the linkage.
The linkage took me a good 8 hours to set up... reason being I had to fabricate a new shifting arm. If you have a mill and a lathe it would be no problem to crank out the necessary pieces and set it up in a fraction of the time it took me. I had access to neither, but made do with my drill in a bench vice and some nifty work with a rotary file.
Basically the shifter arm for the 247 is too long and I'm pretty sure the arm from the 231 would be too short. I'm not positive on the 231 arm being too short, but it was easier for me to make my own than it was for me to drive down to the pick N' pull on a hunch and grab the shorter arm.
For the arm itself I used 1/4" thick by 1" flat stock. First you to need to make a slot 3/8" wide and 5/8" long. I used a 3/8" drill bit and measured 5/8" from center to center. Then I worked a slot between the two holes with a rotary file. The angle of the slot is important so you'll have to crawl under your jeep and figure that out for yourself. basically you want it so the arm points at the able in the correct range. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the closer the better (I eye-balled it). On the factory shifting arm the piece that attaches to the shifting cable is pressed into the arm and mine wouldn't come out. I grabbed some 1/4" round bar stock and cut a short length and stuck it into my drill that I had set up securely in my vice. I used a metal file to mock the grooves and shape of the existing piece so it would snap in properly to the end of the shifting cable. Now if you have a lathe you can turn the rod down and make a press fit in your own arm, but like I mentioned before I don't have the proper machinery to achieve the correct tolerances for a press fit. Rather, I used a 1/4" by 20 dye and made some threads on the opposite end of the machined piece that I made. Now you need to drill a 1/4" hole in the other end of the shifting arm. The position of this hole is critical for the shifter to have enough throw to shift through all the ranges and it may take you a few times for trial and error. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but don't get frustrated. Crawl under the jeep and figure out where the hole would have to go if you match up the shifting cable and moved it through the ranges.
Lastly the drive shaft must be altered. the 231 I purchased already had a SYE kit on it so I had a drive shaft made to the correct length and bolted it in. I don't know if the stock WJ DS would work in a 231 slip yoke, but my recommendation would be to get a 231 with a SYE and eliminate the hassle.
So that's pretty much it. The reason I wanted to swap out the 247 was because I wanted to have a legitimate 2wd range so that when I put in my D44 front end I can unlock the hubs and single out the front drive train. Also I can run the speed input off of the 231 rather than the tone rings in the axle shafts... A big obstacle when the time comes to swap out the coke can 44. I went with a 231 rather than a 242 (an easy swap since they offered them in v8 WJ's) was because I eventually want to run a 4:1 reduction kit as well as the larger aftermarket support for the 231. Feel free to ask any questions and I hope that when the time comes when someone else wants to do the swap I was able to help out.
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