View Full Version : 90 Cherokee XJ rebuilding
I started with doors but turned into something bigger that I didn't plan at all :)
have couple of holes in trunk and bottom. nothing with chassis yet.
dissembling it into pieces time consuming and still on going, some nuts/bolts are quite rusty.
all suggestions are welcome.
removed the carpet and usual ones
removed interior parts all of them. including console but still in that pic :P
quick check on injectors. 3 out of 6 were fine. cleaned them up with ultrasonic cleaner.
got better ohm values after cleaning. from 14.8 to 16.5 ohms something.
here comes the cylinder head off.
rocker arms and cam shifters before cleaning and after 2 rounds of 15 min with ultrasonic cleaner. now left them de greaser for night to get all dirt out.
needed something to keep the engine hanging and adjust... wanted to do it before putting it back.
was fighting with this bolt on top gearbox for 2 hrs to get it out. had to lower transfer case and engine.
temmi_hoo
24.04.2014, 06:10
Is this going to be a total rebuild, to atoms and back together? Looking like so... And looking good too.
Do you have pdf links for engine diagrams?
rocker arms and cam shifters before cleaning and after 2lrounds of 15 min with ultrasonic cleaner. now left them de greaser for night to get all dirt out.
Maybe you should open hydraulic lifters to get dirt out from them. There is small snapring in top of lifter, after that piston and valve will come out and you can clean lifter from inside and check inner bore condition also. Dont mix pistons and valves to other lifters, and becarefull snaprings will fly cross the room when you twist it avay with skrewdriver!
Maybe you should open hydraulic lifters to get dirt out from them. There is small snapring in top of lifter, after that piston and valve will come out and you can clean lifter from inside and check inner bore condition also. Dont mix pistons and valves to other lifters, and becarefull snaprings will fly cross the room when you twist it avay with skrewdriver!
thanks, I guess I will open them too. those passages didn't seem so clean at all. I don't have every right tool so I need to figure out something to open them.
Is this going to be a total rebuild, to atoms and back together? Looking like so... And looking good too.
Do you have pdf links for engine diagrams?
Yes It is going to be a full rebuild. Probably will be the slowest one ever, coz I am doing everything myself.
I have only the part catalogs from morris jeep downloaded. checking them when needed.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
thanks, I guess I will open them too. those passages didn't seem so clean at all. I don't have every right tool so I need to figure out something to open them.
You need just 2 skrewdriver. With bigger one you press piston down 1mm and with smaler one you take snapring out. Little magnet will help you to take piston and valve out from lifter.
After you have assembled lifters back together sink them to motor oil and pump few times piston to fill it with oil. You can feel when piston wont compress anymore, then its full.
finally took out engine, transmission and transfer case. couldn't take them out one piece since I don't have anything that high to hang roller.
engine needs a lot of new parts and seals that I know well. been spitting out a lot of oil from every single place. before removing was hardly making 80km/h and puking oil into air-filter. long list of problems.
transmission is still in good condition I will replace only its oil filter and do some cleaning outside to make it breath more.
transfer case had some switching problems not always. I will replace shift fork pads for now. chain seems ok. not so bad.
You need just 2 skrewdriver. With bigger one you press piston down 1mm and with smaler one you take snapring out. Little magnet will help you to take piston and valve out from lifter.
After you have assembled lifters back together sink them to motor oil and pump few times piston to fill it with oil. You can feel when piston wont compress anymore, then its full.
sure, thanks for the tip, will do that. for now they have wait since I can do that as very last step before closing the valve cover :)
finally got the shift fork rail out. have been fighting to take out that pin (in picture). took it somewhere too but the guy there didn't have any idea and said it has nothing to do with that pin. so came back home, checked the diagrams for np242, the pin was the only way to get the forks out and kept fighting till I find the right screw.
there is slight damage on side where the front output fork sits on the rail. can it be my shifting problem? it was getting stuck when switching from 4x2 to 4x4 high/low.
managed to clean up the cover. it wasn't that easy though. did a bit sanding inside and outside to get smoother surface and painted.
time to have hot bath :) washed the engine block and transmission with pressured hot water. pressure wasn't enough ( Karcher K4.99 ) but still did a good job, something with 160 - 180 bar would do a lot better though. that W5 cleaner made it a lot easier. yes I did lubricate after washing it with water. don't want them get rusty.
oil passages around lifters got cleaner that I could notice them. and did a bit honing on piston skirts since there will be new rings coming.
yet couldn't remove the pulley, I don't wanna heat it up to pull out, waiting for pulley removing tool. probably will get it soon.
removed the pulley and got the everything out from the block. meanwhile ordered a new timing chain.
did one more cleaning round before painting.
painted the block to red :D
will do one more round tomorrow.
pistons were full carbon deposits so I made piston soup :p :D
got the shift rail fixed and smoothed the inner side of shift fork in Jyvaskyla.
now it looks totally fine.
recovered the pictures from phone.
Nice clean pistons. What solvent you used in piston soup?
Nice clean pistons. What solvent you used in piston soup?
JL Tuotteet 502. bought it from http://www.maspart.com/ps-liuotin-jl-tuotteet-502-oljyn-rasvan-pien-poistoon-5-x-20-ltr.html ( only one is possible to buy )
vinegar and de-greaser. mixed 100ml from each in 20 liter 40 degree water and made couple of rounds with ultrasonic cleaner. dirt was coming off easily mostly with brushing. no sanding.
camshaft is a bit worn. quite normal for 400K engine I guess.
washed the head. it was too oily didn't wanna get in more mess.
then removed rockers and valves. started cleaning everything up.
still have a lot to go. probably will do light porting in head.
parts started to come. today got np242 transfer case overhaul kit.
cleaning out intake and exhaust housings. doing sanding with dremel nothing much.
will do buffing after cleaning them up all.
That block needs 258cid crank and rods ;)
That block needs 258cid crank and rods ;)
I have been thinking about replacing it with 258 's stuff
but for now I wanna put it back all together :)
done with the head. painted too.
got the engine parts too. it is a complete rebuild kit. some parts will be on sale:
i will update the list later.
On sale:
Piston set (std)
http://forums.offipalsta.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49633&stc=1&d=1400671161
been a while not to update. meanwhile polished around the valve seats before doing the valve seat refacing, neighbor had the tool for that. saved me some money though. :)
pics from the valve refacing.
cleaned up valve springs and rockers so on
meanwhile bought e300TD with om606.962 engine on it. was cheaper than buying engine separately. has oil leaks around and fuel leaks around fuel pump. not so big deal to fix.
now waits in the yard for next project :)
pics from the valve refacing.
Awesome tool! Do you know where I can buy one also? Can you adjust the angel stepless?
Awesome tool! Do you know where I can buy one also? Can you adjust the angel stepless?
It is quite old one from Lisle. I have been searching for it all over the internet but can't really find anything. All I can find is Neway stuff which are pretty pricy for do-it-yourself.
if you are interested in buying check on ebay there are dozens of them but for certain valve sizes. meaning you may need to buy separate one for different valve sizes.
in that sense that Lisle 66000 kit I used is wiser option with multiple blades having different angles.
Attached the picture from its package:
got camshaft bearing installation tool. since fixing engines quite often, it will be useful though.
after a long break, started to put things together again.
installed camshaft bearings and crankshaft.
new piston rings and bearings.
finally finished transfer case. only left rear output crown loose.
painted. changed seals. bearings and chain are OK.
have bearing set left, might keep them as spare parts or sell if anyone interested.
-valves, stem seals, springs. left the rockers loose for now.
-the timing cam and chain.
-freeze plugs (no pictures)
Looks good:cool: i like this:)
Looks good:cool: i like this:)
thanks :)
changed the color of oil pan and timing chain cover :)
assembled the head and put back the rods so on...
head gasket is from victor reinz. 3 layer one.
Looking great!
Wondering if someone would do that to my Jeep... For cheap of course :D
finished the assembly in engine. left top cover loose to drop the oil all over before starting.
small things left to make it easy to put back: alternator and servo pump.
painted the pulleys, water pump and the brackets too :P
couldn't take separate pics for everything I guess it is all visible and you understand it anyway. it is a jeep thing :)
Looking great!
Wondering if someone would do that to my Jeep... For cheap of course :D
Thanks! working on it more :)
I can get your engine restored and painted as you want for something reasonable but you have to take it out from the car coz it is total pain :D
Thanks! working on it more :)
I can get your engine restored and painted as you want for something reasonable but you have to take it out from the car coz it is total pain :D
Thanks for offer but it's quite long way to get it there.. And after all I want learn to do that myself :)
Thanks for offer but it's quite long way to get it there.. And after all I want learn to do that myself :)
ok if you will need help, feel free to ask anytime :)
jeep's engine is not complicated at all, just need a bit of muscles to work on it :P
That's one sexy lookin' engine these days!
Yeah! I also came to my pants:D:D
changed the color of oil pan and timing chain cover :)
assembled the head and put back the rods so on...
head gasket is from victor reinz. 3 layer one.
i bought new gasket recently, same as yours. I need to take head out and change collapsed lifter ( hope that cam is ok) did some research and it seems that Victor Reinz MLS gasket is same as Mopar Performance headgasket, having thinner compressed thickness than normal replacement ones and thus adds little compression, not much but... for normal ppl its not so important but i have milled head and installed that mopar performance gasget to add little of that.
i bought new gasket recently, same as yours. I need to take head out and change collapsed lifter ( hope that cam is ok) did some research and it seems that Victor Reinz MLS gasket is same as Mopar Performance headgasket, having thinner compressed thickness than normal replacement ones and thus adds little compression, not much but... for normal ppl its not so important but i have milled head and installed that mopar performance gasget to add little of that.
I measured the block and head, they seemed normal so i didn't do any milling, just sanding (1200 grid) backed with aluminum block.
I didn't really check anything about that gasket but the guy who selling it told me to buy that one. it was 2-3 years ago :D
even a little bit increase in compression is enough :) after torquing the head bolts down, spin the crank with hand, make sure you have enough valve clearance
Yeah! I also came to my pants:D:D
want more pics from different angles ?? :D :D
should find sandwich plate adapter and 10 or 13 rows oil cooler from somewhere
Theres sets with 10rows :)
http://www.autotune.fi/tuote/387/oljynjaahdytin-10-rivinen-siirtosarjalla
I measured the block and head, they seemed normal so i didn't do any milling, just sanding (1200 grid) backed with aluminum block.
I didn't really check anything about that gasket but the guy who selling it told me to buy that one. it was 2-3 years ago :D
even a little bit increase in compression is enough :) after torquing the head bolts down, spin the crank with hand, make sure you have enough valve clearance
i took 0.5mm of the head
been driving with that for some years allready, just now have that collapsed lifter and didnt want to spend 5 times more money for just the mopar name on gasket...
next time i also wont buy comp cams lifters... 3rd time i seei some thousand driven lifter fail.
Theres sets with 10rows :)
http://www.autotune.fi/tuote/387/oljynjaahdytin-10-rivinen-siirtosarjalla
not so bad one :)
i took 0.5mm of the head
been driving with that for some years allready, just now have that collapsed lifter and didnt want to spend 5 times more money for just the mopar name on gasket...
next time i also wont buy comp cams lifters... 3rd time i seei some thousand driven lifter fail.
check with these guys http://titanengines.com/
I bought the rebuild kit from them.
was working in workshop for a while and now have some free time again so back to work.
washed inside the intake but seems there is still little bit dirt left. injector seats needs little bit polishing but fine for now.
disassembled throttle body and sunk it in thinner for couple of days and did some buffing inside.
took off the tranny cover to change oil filter so on but there is some water inside :D
poksutin
04.12.2014, 21:22
awesome rebuild...and that titan site was nice too :) gotta open my engine soon too to find that annoying tocking :S
i think its the bearings :S
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzOf_ATm5sw&feature=youtu.be
thats the tocking :(
awesome rebuild...and that titan site was nice too :) gotta open my engine soon too to find that annoying tocking :S
i think its the bearings :S
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzOf_ATm5sw&feature=youtu.be
thats the tocking :(
not sure but sounds like timing chain loose and hitting the cover.. take a thin screw driver, start the engine and check around the engine where the knocking is stronger.
or you can test the chain cranking engine it with wrench and check the distributor. if there is a delay, it is the chain.
poksutin
06.12.2014, 09:15
not sure but sounds like timing chain loose and hitting the cover.. take a thin screw driver, start the engine and check around the engine where the knocking is stronger.
or you can test the chain cranking engine it with wrench and check the distributor. if there is a delay, it is the chain.
have to check that too...easier than taking the oilpan away :)
but i think that the loudest part is between the oilpan and flywheel :S
it does have a tiny rpm drop when idling. it idles on the first line... i think between 400-500rpm but it still runs great... acceleration etc is fine..
got one TransGO reprogramming kit coming in 2-3 weeks.
l'll see how it will change the shifting.
http://forums.offipalsta.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55206&stc=1&d=1417901428
poksutin
19.12.2014, 19:49
finland needs updates :)
finland needs updates :)
updates coming soon.
got the transmission re-prog kit. been busy for a while. :)
finland needs updates :)
reamed out valve seats and tried to make it cross section.
tranny is going into pieces too. drum doesn't look good to me. TC needs new seal. no idea whats gonna come up.
anybody used toyota supra transmission in jeep? :D
http://forums.offipalsta.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55508&stc=1&d=1419185839
I have heard that they used Jeep transmission in some old Supras.:D
I have heard that they used Jeep transmission in some old Supras.:D
major assembly is same with minor changes. extra clutch packs and different valve body.
4runners,pajeros, and gm trucks etc using it too. the one supra is quicker and smoother.
everything else seems ok. valves, clutches and frictions are between allowed measurements.
gonna wash them all and pack it back. should get O.D drum from somewhere.
after all washing still some oily surface...
poksutin
01.02.2015, 09:03
more updates :D
more updates :D
have some other things going on. soon i ll update again :)
assembled inner clutch packs and put the new springs from transgo kit.
should open the valve body to drill and replace remaining springs.
poksutin
09.02.2015, 18:58
engine porn :D
finally had sometime to put things back together. not all though.
cleaned up that stator and removed oil seal to replace. closed the body after 3 months :D
and now time for valve-body. hopefully won't screw things up in here.
except that last pin. cs.
valve bodies are ready. replaced the springs with transgo kits and cleaned up valve guides.
gonna drill the middle plate and close it up till the cracking.
i used toyota supra 7m-ge service specs as reference. jeep aw4 diagrams/specs didn't match on the valve body i have.
valve body mods with diagrams and marks on the plate.
the check balls re-located according to toyota diagrams.
bought new oil pump seal. FPM type. 22euros.
re-positioned check-balls in valve-body and end of story with transmission.
all set. finished with torque convertor. primed the shafts.
Neat work sms1878! What primer/top coat you are using on the parts? For example on the engine/tranny/casings etc which will be in hot conditions, what kind of primer to be used in order to keep it from flaking off after short while? I have probably made some shortcuts while cleaning/preparations prior to the painting...
Thanks in advance..
Neat work sms1878! What primer/top coat you are using on the parts? For example on the engine/tranny/casings etc which will be in hot conditions, what kind of primer to be used in order to keep it from flaking off after short while? I have probably made some shortcuts while cleaning/preparations prior to the painting...
Thanks in advance..
hey thanks. i ll put them one by one
engine block: no primer. cleaned with metal brush and driller then wiped with thinner. used brake caliper paint. needed a bit thicker coat.
transfer case: aluminum primer up to 220c and hot black paint up to 600c.
transmission is same as transfer case.
intake manifold and valve cover: silver hot paint up to 400c.
exhaust manifold: not painted yet but looking for vht 1300c black paint to buy.
drive shafts: applied regular primer, will use with brake caliper paint.
hopefully they will all hold. :)
i should get back to work on this if i will have time from work this summer :)
poksutin
05.06.2016, 07:15
Please continue.... I wanna hear it purrrr
how about an engine swap ? :rolleyes:
have OM606.962 in yard sitting. yet tranny remains as question!
any suggestions on it? (wife wants diesel in jeep :D )
poksutin
27.10.2016, 20:09
do that and gimme that engine :P
do that and gimme that engine :P
hmm, not a bad idea.. but might not happen anytime soon :D
found perfect donor for engine swap and some other spare parts to upgrade.
I know that VM motors have some problems especially if used wrong but I like those more than MB diesels.
MBs are reliable and can make great power but those are too common and boring IMO.
I might visit in this month if it is ok? to see your new XJ, spending some time on cottage.
I know that VM motors have some problems especially if used wrong but I like those more than MB diesels.
MBs are reliable and can make great power but those are too common and boring IMO.
I might visit in this month if it is ok? to see your new XJ, spending some time on cottage.
sure no problem. just stop by... :)
MB engines too common swap, I was thinking of BMW M57 2.5 or 3.0 TD engines
yet the donor car was sold. probably we will keep both of these ones, one diesel on petrol engine should be enough.
maybe sometime later, i will think about swapping again.
Sorry but I did not have time to stop by at daylight at this moment.
But I really want to see your build so I will stop by some day.
Your builds are so super clean.
Tuon pullat jos keität kahvit.
Your builds are so super clean.
thanks.
Tuon pullat jos keität kahvit.
no problem. sent my number with pm. let me know before you come. coffee will be ready :)